Now not only am I running the original Pentium cpu of 1.4Ghz at an incredible 1.86Ghz with no ill after effects at all, I am about to replace the cpu with a Pentium Dothan 2.1Ghz(£60-ebay) which I will OC with the same pin mod. This will produce a very respectable and workable machine turning over at 2.73Ghz, and 100% stable if this last ‘upgrade’ is anything to go by.

One of the additional benefits of this non volt pin mod is the upped responsiveness of the overall system as the FSB is now also 30% faster. This has resulted in a faster ’snappier’ system overall. Programs don’t lag on opening and vidoes now play full screen at 720p and at a halfdecent 25fps.

Windows7 beckons for this aging xp dino, there is a Home Premium copy now winging it’s way to me even as I write this. The only cloud on the horizon is that I will have to use the awful crappy ‘Toshiba’ type 2006 Xpress X200M graphics drivers.

It would be so good to install the last proper XP Catalyst drivers (10.3 – I think)or even in the near future the windows7 ones. I have already tried all sorts of combinations with the various earlier Catalyst versions, but they will not install.

Toshiba seem to have put a file on this machine which prevents the real ATI and full Catalyst suite drivers from loading. This means when I do the OS upgrade I will get a lousy aero spec and poor screen display.

Well you can’t have everything I suppose, and I am very pleased to have found your page without it the wonders of the pin mod along with the volt mod and how to apply thermal compound and all it’s variants to incredibly small things, in very small spaces would have eluded me completely. Now I speak with a new found confidence and certantity on things which only 5 days ago I had little or no understanding. Some might disagree with this bold statement but at least no dare to suggest as much in polite company.

Thank you once again.

i have a toshiba satellite L25-S1192 that i dropped the other night and now the screen doesnt light up. the screen works u see that the screen still works but it is dark. i was wondering if there is a bulb i can change or a board that might have gone bad. So if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix it i would greatly appriciate it.

First of all, I would try reconnecting cables on the inverter board and back of the LCD screen. It’s possible that one of these cables got loose. If it doesn’t help, most likely the backlight lamp got damaged.
The backlight lamp is mounted INSIDE the LCD screen and it’s very hard to replace. If I have to repair a laptop with bad/damaged backlight lamp, I replace the entire screen.

If you want to try replacing just the lamp, take a look at this guide: http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/09/replace-laptop-backlight-ccfl-lamp/

Thanks for your help,
Mike

Joan

I have encountered some problem with the screen now.It has gone dull, which means i can see the display but the backlight is not working, i have bought a new inverter for the backlight and need to know about the cable.The 5 pin connector that goes to the invertor is broken , i need a picture of it showing me which color of wire goes in which pion
There are 5 wires. black, orange , yellow, brown ,red.

You are asking about the connector on the left side of the inverter board if you face the LCD screen, right? OK, I just found a Satellite L25-S1215 and remove the bezel. I have different colors, but they are similar.
When the inverter board is installed, the cables are connected in the following order.
Top to bottom: black (closest to the LCD screen), gray, blue, brown, red. Not sure if it helps.

I think you should get a new video cable. If you connect those cables incorrectly, you can fry the motherboard.

but somehow the very tiny bits in my monitor switch(the teeny weeny thingy that the monitor presses when shut) fell off. Now te laptop won’t start. I guess it assumes the monitor is shut.

It fell off of the switch, right? Maybe there is something stuck inside the switch? Take a look inside with a magnifying glass and maybe try lifting it up with a needle.
I think it’s possible that the lid close switch is pressed down and the laptop “thinks” the display is closed.