Toshiba Satellite L20 and L25 disassembly instructions
Toshiba Satellite L25 laptop disassembly instructions should be similar to Satellite L20. At least on Google images for both models look very similar.
Here are two different guides for the same model.
The first guide explains how to take apart the laptop display panel. Using this guide you’ll be able to remove or replace screen bezel, inverter board and LCD screen. Also, you can use this guide for replacing wireless card antenna cables and video cable.
The second guide explains how to remove and overclock the laptop CPU.
March 13th, 2008 at 8:57 am
Thank you very much for this manual, you did great job.
I have problem with model Satellite L20 – BIOS is constantly reseted each time after shut down my notebook. Please can you tell me, if BIOS is powered by CMOS battery or a capacitor? Potentially where is the capacitator on motherboard?
Thank you and sorry my English.
July 9th, 2008 at 2:16 am
Hey I seem to be having a problem with my screen, I can only see the top quarter of the screen. The rest is distorted, and can only be restored by pressing down on a certain part of the screen really hard. Possible a connection is loose or something, but can you show me how to fix it, or to restore it. Thanks a million and great guide
November 21st, 2008 at 1:51 pm
Great page, thanks for all the info.
The only thing I disagree with is the info on thermal paste. Only a very small amount should be used, and it will spread itself when the cpu is installed correctly.
The pics on this site show too much paste being used, and would act as an insulator, rather than a cooler, which may do more harm then good.
For good instructions, see Arctic Silver’s home page
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm
December 12th, 2008 at 9:04 am
I need the service manual of Toshiba Satellite L20 Laptop. From Where can this be downloaded ?
February 27th, 2009 at 6:32 am
Dear Sir,
Great post,
I have the exact ssame laptop.I have encountered some problem with the screen now.It has gone dull, which means i can see the display but the backlight is not working, i have bought a new inverter for the backlight and need to know about the cable.The 5 pin connector that goes to the invertor is broken , i need a picture of it showing me which color of wire goes in which pion
There are 5 wires. black, orange , yellow, brown ,red. please sir please email me a picture of the 5 pin connector that goes to the invertor if you can please .
address is raunak.lahori @ gmail dot com
March 11th, 2009 at 10:30 am
hi
i disassambled my L10 using this page, thanks. I soldered power jack and reassambled again. but somehow the very tiny bits in my monitor switch(the teeny weeny thingy that the monitor presses when shut) fell off. Now te laptop won’t start. I guess it assumes the monitor is shut. If not, I wonder what’s up. I it is so, how can I fix this? I need to bypass tha switch so the monitor is always on, whether or not shut.
please help me, I’m gonna make a decent donation since this will save my like a couple hundred bucks…
March 11th, 2009 at 10:39 am
nlty,
It fell off of the switch, right? Maybe there is something stuck inside the switch? Take a look inside with a magnifying glass and maybe try lifting it up with a needle.
I think it’s possible that the lid close switch is pressed down and the laptop “thinks” the display is closed.
April 14th, 2009 at 11:27 am
raunak lahori,
You are asking about the connector on the left side of the inverter board if you face the LCD screen, right? OK, I just found a Satellite L25-S1215 and remove the bezel. I have different colors, but they are similar.
When the inverter board is installed, the cables are connected in the following order.
Top to bottom: black (closest to the LCD screen), gray, blue, brown, red. Not sure if it helps.
I think you should get a new video cable. If you connect those cables incorrectly, you can fry the motherboard.
April 17th, 2009 at 8:12 am
Very nice presentation. Well done. Thank you.
Joan
July 2nd, 2009 at 3:35 am
Thanks for this info,
For future reference, I used this info to repair the DC socket on a friends Toshiba Equium
Thanks again
Ron
January 1st, 2010 at 3:40 am
I have a Toshiba L20-101 and the screen doesn’t work. When I turn it on the screen is either very dull or unreadable (lines or blank screen). It used to get to the point where it would show enough and the mouse would move on the screen. If I could change it to dual screen and connect it to a remote monitor it would work, but now it no longer shows the screen. Is there any way I could set the computer to dual screen without seeing the screen? If not, is it the screen that is bad, the invertor, cable or something else?
Thanks for your help,
Mike
January 6th, 2010 at 12:19 pm
i have a toshiba satellite L25-S1192 that i dropped the other night and now the screen doesnt light up. the screen works u see that the screen still works but it is dark. i was wondering if there is a bulb i can change or a board that might have gone bad. So if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix it i would greatly appriciate it.
January 6th, 2010 at 12:22 pm
justin,
First of all, I would try reconnecting cables on the inverter board and back of the LCD screen. It’s possible that one of these cables got loose. If it doesn’t help, most likely the backlight lamp got damaged.
The backlight lamp is mounted INSIDE the LCD screen and it’s very hard to replace. If I have to repair a laptop with bad/damaged backlight lamp, I replace the entire screen.
If you want to try replacing just the lamp, take a look at this guide: http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/09/replace-laptop-backlight-ccfl-lamp/
June 22nd, 2010 at 8:29 am
can i upgrade the processor of toshiba satellite l25?
June 28th, 2010 at 10:09 am
Thank you for the comprehensive, well laid out and easy to understand instructions. I recently inherited my daughters exgcse 2006 vintage Satellite L20, as she has now moved on to bigger and better things. I had just decided to upgrade the wireless outdated a/b/g/card to ‘draft n’ type capabitity, and then I saw your pages.
Now not only am I running the original Pentium cpu of 1.4Ghz at an incredible 1.86Ghz with no ill after effects at all, I am about to replace the cpu with a Pentium Dothan 2.1Ghz(£60-ebay) which I will OC with the same pin mod. This will produce a very respectable and workable machine turning over at 2.73Ghz, and 100% stable if this last ‘upgrade’ is anything to go by.
One of the additional benefits of this non volt pin mod is the upped responsiveness of the overall system as the FSB is now also 30% faster. This has resulted in a faster ’snappier’ system overall. Programs don’t lag on opening and vidoes now play full screen at 720p and at a halfdecent 25fps.
Windows7 beckons for this aging xp dino, there is a Home Premium copy now winging it’s way to me even as I write this. The only cloud on the horizon is that I will have to use the awful crappy ‘Toshiba’ type 2006 Xpress X200M graphics drivers.
It would be so good to install the last proper XP Catalyst drivers (10.3 – I think)or even in the near future the windows7 ones. I have already tried all sorts of combinations with the various earlier Catalyst versions, but they will not install.
Toshiba seem to have put a file on this machine which prevents the real ATI and full Catalyst suite drivers from loading. This means when I do the OS upgrade I will get a lousy aero spec and poor screen display.
Well you can’t have everything I suppose, and I am very pleased to have found your page without it the wonders of the pin mod along with the volt mod and how to apply thermal compound and all it’s variants to incredibly small things, in very small spaces would have eluded me completely. Now I speak with a new found confidence and certantity on things which only 5 days ago I had little or no understanding. Some might disagree with this bold statement but at least no dare to suggest as much in polite company.
Thank you once again.